June 26, 2014

Rick Owens Men’s Spring Summer 2015

Leave it to Rick to always surprise… 
This collection was nothing like I was expecting and honestly by this point I feel like I should expect that from Rick. As a proponent for drop crotch pants even I’m intrigued by what appears to be some kind of tied sarong shorts but it’s hard to tell with the way this show is style. Many garments are worn in such unnatural ways tied and draped over the bodies of the models.

The whole show has a very obvious tribal feel to it with the styling and of course the body paint. Who could forget the body paint… a very bold choice. 

An interesting addition to the collection was the embroidered prints. These were based on a series of drawings Rick Owens team member Benoit had drawn for Rick and Michelle in previous years.

As well in an interview regarding the collection Rick Owens attributed some of the inspiration to ‘the ballet ‘Afternoon of a Faun’ 

"I was thinking about the ballet Afternoon of a Faun, choreographed by Nijinsky. It basically all culminates with this faun masturbating on a nymph’s scarf, so everybody in the audience, with all their jewels, are just waiting for this guy to hump the scarf. I love that!" – Rick Owens.

June 26, 2014

Julius Spring Summer 2015

Tatsuro Horikawa continues the shift back toward a more tailored aesthetic although incorporates a number of oversize tops in this offering. I can’t say I’m surprised by much in the show but that certainly isn’t a fault. It feels like the brand is settling in to more of a defined aesthetic and changing less and less each season. Again not anything negative as in fact I see this as a sign that designer is truly achieving their vision.

This change Julius has been undergoing over the past several seasons towards what I mentally refer to as ‘the softer side of Julius’ has seemed to mirror my own aesthetic shift. Moving away from the more aggressive apocalyptic garments and towards a more gentle aesthetic.

I’m going to need to own a number of these shirts… and as always the cargo pants are grasping for my wallet.

 


June 26, 2014

Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring Summer 2015

The season has just started but Boris is already a strong candidate for the best collection in my humble opinion. I’m elated to see the return of the open weave - almost net like - fabric. The entirety of the collection is so cohesive I feel as though any of the pieces could be worn together.

As usual what few colors Boris has used are exemplary. Green has been something I’ve long considered incorporating in to my wardrobe and I think this may be the season I succumb. The distressed grey-green is one of the most fantastic tones I’ve seen in ages. 

This whole collection seems to follow Boris’ recent shift toward a tighter more tailored look although I’m thankful to see some baggier options included. I couldn’t have asked for much more from this collection. I’m all too happy.

More info on the collection via Now Fashion

The inspiration for this collection came from pretty far away actually, but the collection was mostly about moulding my own produced leather,” said Boris Bidjan Saberi after presenting his Spring Summer 2015 collection at Garage Lübeck. All types of leather were present in his collection, ranging from horse to kangaroo.

Bidjan Saberi paid much attention to his material choices. Besides using his own leather, the cashmeres, cotton and hand-knits were featured prominently.

"My focus has been on very opposite points, but I have tried to make military references.

Moulding his own leather evolved into big backpacks, again inspired by military style. Apart from the bags, he experimented with moulding even more, creating an impressive coat attached to the back of a suit jacket.

Kangaroo leather was not the only thing taken from Australia. His collaboration with the Australian musician Ben Frost functioned as the perfect background for the almost marching models.

Loyal as he is, Boris wanted to be sure all the journalists got the name of the designer he collaborated with for a part of his footwear collection right. It was Muñoz Vrandecic, the designer he first met when he was starting an accessories label called UCANFUCKW, with whom he created the perforated leather boots.

The leather boots, strong music and industrial look of Garage Lübeck had everything to create the military references the designer was aiming for.

September 27, 2013

Ann Demeulemeester SS14 Womens

Ann my dear… Of course this is amazing. Perfect even. 
I loved the men’s collection earlier this year but the prints and embroidery is a little too playful for my personal taste. Now apply that same whimsy and elegance to a women’s outfit and it is nigh perfection. 

I can’t be disappointed by Ann as I’ve surely mentioned before but I can’t even begin to see any faults in this collection. The whole aesthetic direction seems so suited for women it’s undeniable how gorgeous these looks are. 

The hats, although I doubt we will see many on the streets, are perhaps the most beautiful part of the collection. The oversize warped brims float down the runway as if the models are adorned with giant flower petals. 

September 27, 2013

Rick Owens Women’s SS14 

Photographed by Lea Colombo for Dazed Digital

G
reat collection… as always. I liked this more than the Men’s spring summer shown earlier this year. It seems a little more complex but still very comparable to the earlier men’s offering. I’ve probably watched the video for the presentation about five times and I’m absolutely in love with it. The strength, the energy, and the movement of the performance all showcased the collection in such a perfect light. 

Of course there has a been a huge backlash due to Rick’s choice in models. Depending on what you read or who you talk to there are a ton of different opinions regarding the models body type and how they looked in the clothing. I wont be discussing that… I don’t believe that was the motivation behind the choices that were made. The strength and confidence these women exuded was perfect and that’s all that needs to be said. 


July 2, 2013

Comme des Garçons Spring Summer 2014

More soon…

June 29, 2013

Boris Bidjan Saberi Spring Summer 2014 Sailorism 

Boris comes through strong this spring with an array of fabrics and some very interesting details. Now Boris has always had his roots firmly planted in the streetwear and hip hop. It appears much more evident this season as he continues to move towards a more relaxed and casual fit. 

Not to say Boris is forsaking his own cultivated look but you can see a noticeable progression from his first collection to this. Each collection builds on that dark layering he debuted in 2007. Now we are seeing a much more refined Boris with less ragged silhouettes and a multitude of shades. 

Seeing such a range of fabrics introduced to a BBS collection has me very intrigued based on his alchemical ways. I’m wondering how many of these fabrics were designed in house. This is usually the kind of thing that traps me in to obsession with a designer and as Boris continues creating I see parts of Carol Christian Poell in his methods. Trust me that is the highest of praise. 

The few gripes I have with this collection are that I’m not seeing any leather jackets, but it’s spring summer so I guess they aren’t necessary on the runway. Hopefully we do see some in production though. As well that orange color is too abrasive for me but I could see it be worn well when layered. 

All in all this is a very strong effort by Boris and continues down the right path. I see tons of stuff I want right off the bat and that is always a good sign. I’ll be posting the video soon hopefully because seeing many of these garments in motion solidified my appreciation for this collection.

Full collection on Boris Bidjan Saberi 

June 28, 2013
This is too good not to post.StyleZeitgeist out in full force at Paris Fashion WeekVia Im Koo

This is too good not to post.

StyleZeitgeist out in full force at Paris Fashion Week

Via Im Koo

June 28, 2013

Ann Demuelemeester Spring Summer 2014

Ann returns to spring in a most playful and lighthearted manor. She maintains that dark brooding feel while adding splashes of color and and print. 

The collection was inspired by Ann’s own garden as well as the idea of ‘a leisurely  Sunday afternoon stroll’ which I feel is evident in the fits. This season see’s a return to a more form fitting Ann. Garments that are easy to live in and look easier to move in than past offerings. I feel she captured that playful feeling that an unencumbered Sunday holds. Lighthearted and relaxed but still very within the bounds of Ann’s design scheme. 

Parts of the collection are incredibly busy and when layered as bountifully as on the runway almost reminds one of The Soloist. This is certainly a new direction from Ann and while I can’t say I don’t miss the minimalism I feel this will be adopted by more than just the regular Ann clientele

I see a lot of areas in this collection where Ann clearly went back and reworked older designs to a point of such refinement. One thing I have noticed is the jackets seem a bit slimmer and perhaps more form fitting than previous seasons. This is something I can get behind as a slim gentleman. 

Ann fits in to that category with Yohji where I know what to expect each season and I find it hard to be disappointed. When someone can design so confidently and in such an unwavering sense while still providing this  level of progression it’s hard to find anything wrong. This seems like the most audacious although possibly most wearable Ann collection in a few seasons. As always I look forward to more details on this collection. 

June 28, 2013
Ann Demeulemeester Spring Summer 2014”As Demeulemeester explained backstage, her inspiration came from an idea of taking a leisurely  Sunday afternoon stroll. “I wanted something really light, with a bit of humor and good feeling,” she sad. The design of the wisteria vines that were the leitmotif for the collection came from Demeulemeester’s own garden, of course.”
Photo and text from SZ

Ann Demeulemeester Spring Summer 2014

As Demeulemeester explained backstage, her inspiration came from an idea of taking a leisurely  Sunday afternoon stroll. “I wanted something really light, with a bit of humor and good feeling,” she sad. The design of the wisteria vines that were the leitmotif for the collection came from Demeulemeester’s own garden, of course.”

Photo and text from SZ