Ann Demeulemeester SS14 Womens
Ann my dear… Of course this is amazing. Perfect even.
I loved the men’s collection earlier this year but the prints and embroidery is a little too playful for my personal taste. Now apply that same whimsy and elegance to a women’s outfit and it is nigh perfection.
I can’t be disappointed by Ann as I’ve surely mentioned before but I can’t even begin to see any faults in this collection. The whole aesthetic direction seems so suited for women it’s undeniable how gorgeous these looks are.
The hats, although I doubt we will see many on the streets, are perhaps the most beautiful part of the collection. The oversize warped brims float down the runway as if the models are adorned with giant flower petals.
Ann Demeulemeester SS14 Womens
Rick Owens Women’s SS14
Photographed by Lea Colombo for Dazed Digital
Great collection… as always. I liked this more than the Men’s spring summer shown earlier this year. It seems a little more complex but still very comparable to the earlier men’s offering. I’ve probably watched the video for the presentation about five times and I’m absolutely in love with it. The strength, the energy, and the movement of the performance all showcased the collection in such a perfect light.
Of course there has a been a huge backlash due to Rick’s choice in models. Depending on what you read or who you talk to there are a ton of different opinions regarding the models body type and how they looked in the clothing. I wont be discussing that… I don’t believe that was the motivation behind the choices that were made. The strength and confidence these women exuded was perfect and that’s all that needs to be said.
Comme des Garçons Spring Summer 2014
Boris Bidjan Saberi Spring Summer 2014 Sailorism
Boris comes through strong this spring with an array of fabrics and some very interesting details. Now Boris has always had his roots firmly planted in the streetwear and hip hop. It appears much more evident this season as he continues to move towards a more relaxed and casual fit.
Not to say Boris is forsaking his own cultivated look but you can see a noticeable progression from his first collection to this. Each collection builds on that dark layering he debuted in 2007. Now we are seeing a much more refined Boris with less ragged silhouettes and a multitude of shades.
Seeing such a range of fabrics introduced to a BBS collection has me very intrigued based on his alchemical ways. I’m wondering how many of these fabrics were designed in house. This is usually the kind of thing that traps me in to obsession with a designer and as Boris continues creating I see parts of Carol Christian Poell in his methods. Trust me that is the highest of praise.
The few gripes I have with this collection are that I’m not seeing any leather jackets, but it’s spring summer so I guess they aren’t necessary on the runway. Hopefully we do see some in production though. As well that orange color is too abrasive for me but I could see it be worn well when layered.
All in all this is a very strong effort by Boris and continues down the right path. I see tons of stuff I want right off the bat and that is always a good sign. I’ll be posting the video soon hopefully because seeing many of these garments in motion solidified my appreciation for this collection.
Ann Demuelemeester Spring Summer 2014
Ann returns to spring in a most playful and lighthearted manor. She maintains that dark brooding feel while adding splashes of color and and print.
The collection was inspired by Ann’s own garden as well as the idea of ‘a leisurely Sunday afternoon stroll’ which I feel is evident in the fits. This season see’s a return to a more form fitting Ann. Garments that are easy to live in and look easier to move in than past offerings. I feel she captured that playful feeling that an unencumbered Sunday holds. Lighthearted and relaxed but still very within the bounds of Ann’s design scheme.
Parts of the collection are incredibly busy and when layered as bountifully as on the runway almost reminds one of The Soloist. This is certainly a new direction from Ann and while I can’t say I don’t miss the minimalism I feel this will be adopted by more than just the regular Ann clientele.
I see a lot of areas in this collection where Ann clearly went back and reworked older designs to a point of such refinement. One thing I have noticed is the jackets seem a bit slimmer and perhaps more form fitting than previous seasons. This is something I can get behind as a slim gentleman.
Ann fits in to that category with Yohji where I know what to expect each season and I find it hard to be disappointed. When someone can design so confidently and in such an unwavering sense while still providing this level of progression it’s hard to find anything wrong. This seems like the most audacious although possibly most wearable Ann collection in a few seasons. As always I look forward to more details on this collection.
Ann Demeulemeester Spring Summer 2014
”As Demeulemeester explained backstage, her inspiration came from an idea of taking a leisurely Sunday afternoon stroll. “I wanted something really light, with a bit of humor and good feeling,” she sad. The design of the wisteria vines that were the leitmotif for the collection came from Demeulemeester’s own garden, of course.”
Julius Spring Summer 2014 Details
The shoes… oh the shoes…
I declined to comment on this aspect of the collection earlier today as I was unable to really see the footwear in the photos initially posted. I’m happy to say these boots do not disappoint.
Tatsuro comes through strong this season with a striking array of shoes and boots. The usual chunky soled combats make an appearance but with a very unique twist. Not only do they feature a back zip but a zipper running parallel to the laces that would seem to offer a lot of variation in styling the boot.
My personal favorite of the collection has to be the lace up boots with the simple back zip. The abundance of laces creates a beautiful layering across the face of the shoe.These are so far my grail from from the collection.
The only photos I could find of the peep toe boots were quite blurry but those as well look like classic Julius boots with the toe cut off. An interesting design indeed.
Finally we come to the complex boot - runner hybrid piece. I’m not even sure how to classify these shoes in terms of the shape and elements involved. They seem more relaxed and likely easier to wear than a majority of the shoes from this collection but they are hardly an understated piece. Again magnificent.
Last but not least we have the accessories featured through the collection which I as well did not comment on earlier. Again because of the lack of clear shots of them but going through the detail photos I can see a lot of gorgeous leather pieces. My favorite thus far being what appears to be a series of stacked leather circles creating a layered bracelet. I’d be interested in finding out if they are individual pieces or actually adhered together in some way.
I’m glad to see the detail shots made it out so quickly so I can finitely say that this collection in it’s entirety is fantastic.
What a great start to Paris Fashion Week.
Julius Spring Summer 2014
It is finally here and it is fantastic.
Again this season Julius continues the shift towards the softer side of things. Going back to the days of soft materials and forms Tatsuro conjures a very Rick Owens vibe with a lot of this collection.
Not to say the collection is overly similar to one Rick would release as Tatsuro has clearly designed this from the ground up. This season we see a return of the distorted prints but with a twist. It seems they are using a different technique this time through as the colors are presented in much larger areas. I quite like the subtle usage of such a loud pattern in the tights as shown in the photo above. Just something small and eye catching to offset the otherwise unassuming outfit.
One thing I can’t really comment on is the shoes. From what I’ve seen they look like what I’ve come to expect from Julius but I will need to see more photos first. The peep toe sandals are certainly of interest as the heat overtakes the summer.
As expected the collection is rife with the Julius staples that keep me coming back. From the leathers to the cargos it’s all represented piece by piece in the runway. As well Tatsuro has brought some new designs to this collection with the boxy shirts and shorts. These parts of the collection carry that softness one would see in ma_julius seemingly bridging the gaps between the two collections.
There are a lot of good ideas going on here as the curation of Julius continues. I can see many elements from previous collections being improved upon as well as new bits and pieces being introduced to push the envelope. I can’t ask for much more from a brand but to stay true to itself and improve upon what it’s built. Tatsuro seems to agree…
Full Collection at Fashionising