Burnt Pigskin Handmade Double Zip Leather Jacket by James Kearns

Information from the designer:
“The card pattern is drawn up

The leather is cut, from about 3 full size pig skins.  (This really depends on who i’m making it for and the feelings i want to give them when they are wearing the jacket.  Some of my clients I’m close to and know well.  I know how they like to feel and move in there cloths so i know what i’m looking for from the skins when cutting the leather.  For me and the samples i make i always try and make the harder and tighter garments so i know and understand how the leather changes over time, and allot changes.)

From the 3 skins used all the panels are cut and sewn together.

Next I begin a series of treatments using some very unusual techniques (always handy to have a fire extinguisher on standby) that give the leather its unusual appearance, finish and texture.

Once the garment is molded to the fit i want i begin dying the garment by hand so i am in total control of the process.  This is then left to dry for a few hours.

Then the waxing starts, this feeds the leather and it becomes softer again.  I apply it in a few ways depending on the look i want to give the garment.  That is left for a few hours again.

Then the buffing, this makes sure the garment is fully covered and gives the finished look I’m wanting.

These are all things i’ve just picked up when working with the leather.  I haven’t ever bothered looking for leather treatments as i find it more fun just seeing what effects i can do at home.  Just so you know this look can be achieved by using chemicals, but this isn’t something i want to do.  It’s just not the way i want to work.  Plus it doesn’t give me the same sculpting control you get form using my own techniques created from basic experiments.  Plus it is bloody fun” 

For some time now I’ve been hunting for ~the perfect leather~ and with the recent launch of James’ site I of course had to check out his leather work. I was immediately drawn to this jacket because of the length and cut and my interest only deepened when I was able to view the details. From the gorgeous wrinkled “burnt” texture to the length and cut of the jacket everything appeals to my aesthetic sense. Whats more the idea of moldable leather is incredibly appealing since I have such abnormal dimensions. As well the aging and wrinkling of the garment will be a sight to behold again since it’s such a substantial leather. Finally the cherry on top is that unbelievable large shearling collar which contrasts the otherwise unlined jacket. Truly an amazing garment and yet another excellent step from this promising designer.