September 30, 2014

Yohji Yamamoto Women’s Spring Summer 2015

"I challenge what is sexy for me" Yohji Yamamoto (Post show ss15) 

This is certainly the most exposed, sensual Yohji collection I can recall in recent seasons. I was shocked to see so much skin on the runway in a Yamamoto show as previously he has discussed his ideal of women’s sensuality and it certainly did not conjure images like this. The quote above does well to describe Yohji’s mindset going in to this season though. Challenging himself and his audience with something striking and new. The body exposed, the mind protected. 

September 24, 2014
Yohji Yamamoto is a man who needs little by way of introduction. He is a singular figure within the fashion landscape—known as much for his enigmatic charm as his unfailingly avant-garde collections. He first debuted in Paris in 1981—that would be 33 years ago—and he will return to the City of Lights later this month (September 26th) to unveil his most recent. If history repeats itself, which it has been known to do, it will be a scintillating show.
In honor of the upcoming event, we checked in with the famously private designer to hear his thoughts on the past, present, and future of his namesake collections.

What has stayed most constant throughout your work?Obviously, people have noticed that I am fond of using black. Black is the end of color. Wearing black is like saying, ‘I will not bother you, and please do not bother me.’ And sometimes, when I am making clothes, I concentrate too much on the patterns and fabrics that I forget to use colors.
Of all your collections, is there one that you remember as being the most fun to design?The most fun collection to design is the one I am doing now: Yohji Yamamoto FEMME 2015 Spring/Summer. I do not want to look back. If you look back, you cannot make progress. My best show will always be the next one. When a pattern-maker comes up with something beyond my imagination, I am surprised and feel excited. For the coming season, pattern-makers have kept surprising me.
How do you continue to be inspired, to push yourself and your craft over so many years?Cigarettes. Just kidding. At first, I studied hard and copied the creations of many great designers, such as Coco Chanel and Madeleine Vionnet. I copied over and over. One day, I just realized that people began calling me “master.”  In my atelier, there are so many hard-working people. I need to be responsible because they are there, so I have pushed myself very hard over years. By reading books, experiencing different cultures, and learning from people around me, I get inspiration. Recently, I get inspiration when I am driving a car. Actually, if you continue doing one thing passionately, maybe at least five years, you will know.
How does Regulation complement your other collections?Regulation is very special because the brand concept is about uniform and military, which is not a common element in other collections. And it is unisex since many pieces can be worn by both men and women. Although Yohji Yamamoto is famous for oversized design, the size of Regulation, especially the men’s collection, is based on my size, which is a typical Asian size—smaller than European ones.
What were you most inspired by for Fall 2014? What about Spring 2015?You may already know that I worked with a very young artist called Yasuto Sasada for Fall 2014—on both the men’s and women’s collection. The common theme is ‘Fashion is Always Art.’  I asked Mr. Sasada to paint something sweet but dark at the same time. I like the contrast of being sweet and evil. If someone has both of these qualities, I will be very interested. The Yohji Yamamoto HOMME 2014 Fall/Winter fashion show was the very first time to present all prints on the runway. I felt excited to use those artist prints. And for the Spring/Summer 2015, I am inspired by the idea of ‘Culture Mix.’ I wanted to show interesting aspects of a cultural mix, creating a free world without government or authorities. By using exotic and ethnic prints and fabrics, as well as motifs from Asian and Middle Eastern countries, I wanted to combine different cultural lifestyles to create borderless yet elegant looks. For the 2015 Spring/Summer women’s collection, it is a secret.
Do you feel that you have accomplished what you set out to do when you started?Never.
What is the first thing you do when you wake up in the morning? And the last thing you do before you go to bed at night?Saying good morning and good night to my dog Rin. She is an Akita dog and only two years old. Every day, I go walking with her for about one hour, no matter if it is raining or snowing. Rin brings me good luck. Since she started to live with me, many good things happened to me. Also, she inspires me lot. You may have seen her face on Yohji Yamamoto scarves and clothes. Now she has become more famous than I am!
What’s next?Let’s wait and see. You will know everything if you see Yohji Yamamoto FEMME 2015 Spring/Summer fashion show in Paris on September 26th.

Yohji Yamamoto is a man who needs little by way of introduction. He is a singular figure within the fashion landscape—known as much for his enigmatic charm as his unfailingly avant-garde collections. He first debuted in Paris in 1981—that would be 33 years ago—and he will return to the City of Lights later this month (September 26th) to unveil his most recent. If history repeats itself, which it has been known to do, it will be a scintillating show.

In honor of the upcoming event, we checked in with the famously private designer to hear his thoughts on the past, present, and future of his namesake collections.

window-window

What has stayed most constant throughout your work?
Obviously, people have noticed that I am fond of using black. Black is the end of color. Wearing black is like saying, ‘I will not bother you, and please do not bother me.’ And sometimes, when I am making clothes, I concentrate too much on the patterns and fabrics that I forget to use colors.

Of all your collections, is there one that you remember as being the most fun to design?
The most fun collection to design is the one I am doing now: Yohji Yamamoto FEMME 2015 Spring/Summer. I do not want to look back. If you look back, you cannot make progress. My best show will always be the next one. When a pattern-maker comes up with something beyond my imagination, I am surprised and feel excited. For the coming season, pattern-makers have kept surprising me.

How do you continue to be inspired, to push yourself and your craft over so many years?
Cigarettes. Just kidding. At first, I studied hard and copied the creations of many great designers, such as Coco Chanel and Madeleine Vionnet. I copied over and over. One day, I just realized that people began calling me “master.”  In my atelier, there are so many hard-working people. I need to be responsible because they are there, so I have pushed myself very hard over years. By reading books, experiencing different cultures, and learning from people around me, I get inspiration. Recently, I get inspiration when I am driving a car. Actually, if you continue doing one thing passionately, maybe at least five years, you will know.

How does Regulation complement your other collections?
Regulation is very special because the brand concept is about uniform and military, which is not a common element in other collections. And it is unisex since many pieces can be worn by both men and women. Although Yohji Yamamoto is famous for oversized design, the size of Regulation, especially the men’s collection, is based on my size, which is a typical Asian size—smaller than European ones.

What were you most inspired by for Fall 2014? What about Spring 2015?
You may already know that I worked with a very young artist called Yasuto Sasada for Fall 2014—on both the men’s and women’s collection. The common theme is ‘Fashion is Always Art.’  I asked Mr. Sasada to paint something sweet but dark at the same time. I like the contrast of being sweet and evil. If someone has both of these qualities, I will be very interested. The Yohji Yamamoto HOMME 2014 Fall/Winter fashion show was the very first time to present all prints on the runway. I felt excited to use those artist prints. And for the Spring/Summer 2015, I am inspired by the idea of ‘Culture Mix.’ I wanted to show interesting aspects of a cultural mix, creating a free world without government or authorities. By using exotic and ethnic prints and fabrics, as well as motifs from Asian and Middle Eastern countries, I wanted to combine different cultural lifestyles to create borderless yet elegant looks. For the 2015 Spring/Summer women’s collection, it is a secret.

Do you feel that you have accomplished what you set out to do when you started?
Never.

What is the first thing you do when you wake up in the morning? And the last thing you do before you go to bed at night?
Saying good morning and good night to my dog Rin. She is an Akita dog and only two years old. Every day, I go walking with her for about one hour, no matter if it is raining or snowing. Rin brings me good luck. Since she started to live with me, many good things happened to me. Also, she inspires me lot. You may have seen her face on Yohji Yamamoto scarves and clothes. Now she has become more famous than I am!

What’s next?
Let’s wait and see. You will know everything if you see Yohji Yamamoto FEMME 2015 Spring/Summer fashion show in Paris on September 26th.

September 11, 2014

Yohji Yamamoto

URBAN NOMADS is an installation built around a collection of products for both retail and living environments; it is a selection of Neeland’s timeless, purely designed objects that address

the anti-throwaway, anti-fashionable products that have evolved due to our increasingly transient lifestyles.

URBAN NOMADS is an installation built around a collection of products for both retail and living environments; it is a selection of Neeland’s timeless, purely designed objects that address

the anti-throwaway, anti-fashionable products that have evolved due to our increasingly transient lifestyles.

September 4, 2014
Yohji Yamamoto x Selfridges London - The Master of Defiance Window Display 
"Drawing on the designer’s love for the avant-garde, Yohji Yamamoto’s window is inspired by the haunting and eery mixture of science fiction and film noir seen in Bladerunner."

Yohji Yamamoto x Selfridges London - The Master of Defiance Window Display 

"Drawing on the designer’s love for the avant-garde, Yohji Yamamoto’s window is inspired by the haunting and eery mixture of science fiction and film noir seen in Bladerunner."

September 4, 2014

Yohji Yamamoto - The Master of Defiance 

“In collaboration with SHOWstudio & in association with Vertu we bring you The Masters – our latest fashion campaign celebrating twelve designers who have shaped the fashion landscape. ” 

July 28, 2014

Vogue Japan celebrating 25 years

Publication: Vogue Japan September 2014

Models: Saskia de Brauw, Tao Okamoto, Malgosia Bela, Mariacarla Boscono, Natasha Poly, Carolyn Murphy, Eva Herzigova, Guinevere van Seenus, Karen Elson, Maggie Rizer, Claudia Schiffer, Nadja Auermann, Stephanie Seymour, Linda Evangelista & Naomi Campbell

Photographer: Iango Henzi + Luigi Murenu

Fashion Editor: Giovanna Battaglia

This editorial is celebrating 25 years of Vogue Japan. And at the same time, it’s one of the most powerful shoots ever done in the fashion industry.

June 26, 2014

Yohji Yamamoto Spring Summer 2015

"Do we ever find ourselves?" 

Words cannot do this justice. Anyone that may have questioned Yohji’s direction or sense of identity in past seasons will now eat those words.

Yohji is a designer who no matter the market has always stuck by his vision and this perhaps has not always been the best for business. Yet this is something I find so admirable as it shows such a confidence in his design.

I find such solace in Yohji and his timeless garments. Yohji will always be Yohji in most sincere sense and that reliability is unwavering.

May 22, 2014
The Man Himself

The Man Himself

May 16, 2014

Yohji Yamamoto - Discord

This new luxury accessory brand ‘Discord’ by Yohji Yamamoto went on presale earlier this week in Tokyo. The brand itself was launched as a collaboration with Isetan Mitsukoshi but has evolved to be much more. The logo is composed of a series of imperfect lines or scratches which echoes the wabi-sabi of the items themselves. 

This is Yohji’s first attempt at making bags in the 40 years he’s been a designer. He assembled a team of female designers to help him determine the right texture for the leather as well as the length of the handles and other minute details. 

Yohji does an excellent job of explaining the collection though…
“There are so many cool things in Japan. Wabi-sabi (austere refinement and quiet simplicity), ma (intervals), the aesthetic of subtraction and beauty derived from disintegration and distortion are unique to Japan. We have artisans with top-level traditional skills who work for small businesses. If we create opportunities to introduce items created with such spirits to the market, young people might become interested in the creative process and follow the predecessors’ steps. It’s important for people like me, who have been involved in fashion for a long time, to encourage young talent and pass on traditions and skills. To achieve this, I want to emphasize Japanese beauty in my designs. For this, I require your support!”

March 3, 2014

Yohji Yamamoto AW 14

Madness, Insanity, Perfection… 

From the silhouettes to the obvious business of the paintings / prints this collection sees a more frantic side of Yohji. I believe the paintings to be a collaboration with an Artist although I will update with that information later. 

It’s a gorgeous collection though and certainly pairs well with the Men’s collection presented earlier this year.

Although the Women’s is the clear favorite in my mind.