“Clothing designer Richard Soderberg Created this piece of art together with his brother Anton Soderberg. The purpose of this project was to develop a new function expression in synergy with garments”
Obscur A/W 13
Obscur interview regarding the most recent Fall / Winter collection
1/ Can you tell us the title of this collection ?
“Övergång” - means transition in Swedish.
2/ Can you tell us the concept and themes behind it ?
We are this season “transitioning” into another way of developing our collection. We are only two persons working on the collection, and we have upon till now been very limited in our way of working. From working with people literally all over the world we have found that to be able to create an amazing collection or array of garments, one must forget the pride of doing something completely on your own. We have searched for a very long time for craftsmen that will help us push our work further in terms of quality and technical solutions and we believe we have found these people.
These craftsmen and the possibilities we are given when working together has been a great inspiration in itself. I believe that the more pure and minimalistic feel you strive for with a garment the more thought out and better quality it has to be given.
And in this is also the concept - to create very minimalistic silhouettes, and by doing so it enables us to alter the proportions of the body in the eye of the beholder.
3/ Can you tell us what inspired you this time ? ( Movies , music , artists , places , experiences , news , history etc )
My inspirations are more connected witH non defined time periods rather than chosen collections. I am right now inspired a lot by my childhood, and the way I grew up. I was totally in love with walking around in my fathers orthopedic workshop in which I saw everything from liquids that all behaved differently to solid metal joints and prosthetic legs and arms.
i have always been interested in the deformities and the things / people / objects that do not “FIT IN”. I feel very much like an outsider myself and I guess the creativity in combination with working with my hands is sort of a therapy, or a retribution.
When I was younger I also recall myself looking at classic tailoring as something so definite for a male like me to wear when growing up, there could be nothing else. I still believe that part of it is true and I think that is visible in this collection
4/ What are the main colors of the collection / anything new ? Why ?
Color is partly important, even though it shouldn’t. Color is a way of tricking the eye from what is really important - the building/structure and material of the garment. It’s a one way for designers to trick the audience in thinking that he/she is doing something “new”.
But if people buy into that - why not try it?
5/ What are the main fabrics of the collection / anything new ? Why ?
This season we are mostly using fabrics from Italy, where we tried a little more classic approach instead of the usually treated and distressed. The fabrics are nothing until they are assembled into garments - and by then they are EVERYTHING.
6/ Can you tell us if there are any new designs / shapes / ideas which you have introduced this time ? Why ?
Like said before deformation and the play with proportions is very interesting to me, but also I tried to capture a little bit more of the practical aspect. To have pockets in the right places, detachable/attachable parts of garments that serve a purpose in different weather conditions. Bags with welded metal parts underneath so you can put down your bag anywhere without worrying about it getting dirty or destroyed. Where I live the winter really takes its toll on the garments, and I want things to last - especially when I’m wearing them In my hard way
7/ How do you see this collection fitting into this time and space : A/W 2013 ?
“Fit in? ; -)”
I’d done a single post on this before with a similar outfit as above and it was quite well received. I assume this will be too as it is quite a refined collection. Seeing some of Obscur’s past archives a lot of their older garments were more distressed and worn. You can see some of those elements here but as they have progressed as a brand they really seem to be pinpointing an interesting look. I can see some similarities to other brands I’m drawn to but they have a very original take on whatever they do. Obscur is going to be one of my top buys when this drops.
Obscur Fall Winter 2013 Showroom
Obscur AW12 showroom teaser
Much more reserved looking than previous seasons, in a good way. I love the audacity of many Obscur pieces but at the same time they are hard for every day wear. This appears to be a wonderful middle ground.
Obscur HV12-14 Asymmetric collar calf jacket and HV12-24 Drop crotch swinger via Orimono
Obscur Spring Summer 2013 Discipline
”Manipulated forms of altered human bodies foreshadows the lines of
discipline. Skilled medical devices used to correct these deformations
act as a balance between sterile material and the natural progression of
Wrapped bandages in organic shapes co-exist with metallic elements in
order to dress the body while keeping it within an articulated form.
Over-treated materials embody the wear of garment’s over time while sleek textiles restrain the body whilst representing the pillar of modern day society.”