HV14-5 Waxy Leather Jacket Rubberized Sleeves
A supple choice in materials gives this piece its vitality. Breathable cutouts along the inner sleeve are defined by rubber outlines. There occur elongated breathable tech linings outlined by leather details that shape the structure of the hand.
HV14-3 Guidi Horse Leather Cross-Zip
The element of detachment is being explored and realized within washed sumptuous leather. Metal Zippers are arranged along the front of the silhouette and are extended through to the collar and down to the back. This execution grants multiple uses and interactions with this piece.
HV14-4 Guidi Horse Leather With binded Elbow Joints
Traditional elements are juxtaposed by strong opulent material and detail. Being bound within the jacket by an independent leather harness also aids to the feeling of security. Carefully constructed leather bound joints allow for a feeling of flexibility.
HV14-2 Shiny Guidi Zip up Neck Jacket with Rubberized Sleeves
The silhouette of this form has been cast directly onto the human figure allowing for maximum movement and the ability to pose as a structure, when fixed until the top. Articulated elbow joints sealed with rubber alongside hands wrapped in opulent leather with exposed knuckles make the wearer conscious of his own being.
Substantial elements of utilitarianism are mixed with luxurious leather in this classic representation. Weathered metal buckles are placed accordingly around areas of the body that require at times both restraint and expansion. The wearer has the ability to adjust these properties.
HV14-13 Perforated Leather Jacket
The simplicity that appears within the silhouette of this piece only masks the advanced development within the perforation. Individually programmed and punctured each pattern piece that makes up this garment is a true work of technique and distinctiveness. In order for the pattern to be effective the perforations must be executed in a vanishing form so that the tailoring of the jacket is not impaired.
Obscur Moldable Jacket for A/W 2014 “Inhale Exhale” Preview video
Obscur Womens SS14 Preview
Obscur Spring Summer 2014
Obscur Spring Summer 2014 ‘Synthesis’
The collection consists of hole by hole laser cut leathers and cottons. Linens with latex sealed edges. Horse leather boots cut in half and re-attached with traditional surgery staples. Hand finished water proof materials. Silver mech jewelry.
"Clothing designer Richard Soderberg Created this piece of art together with his brother Anton Soderberg. The purpose of this project was to develop a new function expression in synergy with garments"
Obscur A/W 13
Obscur interview regarding the most recent Fall / Winter collection
1/ Can you tell us the title of this collection ?
"Övergång" - means transition in Swedish.
2/ Can you tell us the concept and themes behind it ?
We are this season “transitioning” into another way of developing our collection. We are only two persons working on the collection, and we have upon till now been very limited in our way of working. From working with people literally all over the world we have found that to be able to create an amazing collection or array of garments, one must forget the pride of doing something completely on your own. We have searched for a very long time for craftsmen that will help us push our work further in terms of quality and technical solutions and we believe we have found these people.
These craftsmen and the possibilities we are given when working together has been a great inspiration in itself. I believe that the more pure and minimalistic feel you strive for with a garment the more thought out and better quality it has to be given.
And in this is also the concept - to create very minimalistic silhouettes, and by doing so it enables us to alter the proportions of the body in the eye of the beholder.
3/ Can you tell us what inspired you this time ? ( Movies , music , artists , places , experiences , news , history etc )
My inspirations are more connected witH non defined time periods rather than chosen collections. I am right now inspired a lot by my childhood, and the way I grew up. I was totally in love with walking around in my fathers orthopedic workshop in which I saw everything from liquids that all behaved differently to solid metal joints and prosthetic legs and arms.
i have always been interested in the deformities and the things / people / objects that do not “FIT IN”. I feel very much like an outsider myself and I guess the creativity in combination with working with my hands is sort of a therapy, or a retribution.
When I was younger I also recall myself looking at classic tailoring as something so definite for a male like me to wear when growing up, there could be nothing else. I still believe that part of it is true and I think that is visible in this collection
4/ What are the main colors of the collection / anything new ? Why ?
Color is partly important, even though it shouldn’t. Color is a way of tricking the eye from what is really important - the building/structure and material of the garment. It’s a one way for designers to trick the audience in thinking that he/she is doing something “new”.
But if people buy into that - why not try it?
5/ What are the main fabrics of the collection / anything new ? Why ?
This season we are mostly using fabrics from Italy, where we tried a little more classic approach instead of the usually treated and distressed. The fabrics are nothing until they are assembled into garments - and by then they are EVERYTHING.
6/ Can you tell us if there are any new designs / shapes / ideas which you have introduced this time ? Why ?
Like said before deformation and the play with proportions is very interesting to me, but also I tried to capture a little bit more of the practical aspect. To have pockets in the right places, detachable/attachable parts of garments that serve a purpose in different weather conditions. Bags with welded metal parts underneath so you can put down your bag anywhere without worrying about it getting dirty or destroyed. Where I live the winter really takes its toll on the garments, and I want things to last - especially when I’m wearing them In my hard way
7/ How do you see this collection fitting into this time and space : A/W 2013 ?
"Fit in? ; -)"
I’d done a single post on this before with a similar outfit as above and it was quite well received. I assume this will be too as it is quite a refined collection. Seeing some of Obscur’s past archives a lot of their older garments were more distressed and worn. You can see some of those elements here but as they have progressed as a brand they really seem to be pinpointing an interesting look. I can see some similarities to other brands I’m drawn to but they have a very original take on whatever they do. Obscur is going to be one of my top buys when this drops.