Boris Bidjan Saberi SS 12 via mercury-maeda
Boris Bidjan Saberi
Legends of Spring via H.Lorenzo
The French fashion curator and critic Olivier Saillard opened the Comme des Garçons “White Drama” exhibition on Wednesday night at the Cité de la Mode et du Design across the Seine, in the temporary digs of the Musée Galliera.
Showcasing the Spring Summer 2012 collection in its entirety, the all-white installation is divided into six chapters, each featuring a series of silhouettes encased in an inflatable plastic dome. First shown during Paris Fashion Week on October 1st 2011, the collection follows a feminine evolution through the stages of life – from birth, through marriage, towards death – all in shades of white picked out in delicate leavers lace, silk satin, wool gabardine and floral embroideries. Certain styles featured tied sleeves and covered veils, evoking thoughts of strait-jackets and religious garb. The few moments of contrast arrive as inflated black rubber headpieces by the London set designer Gary Card, and hand-painted graffiti by the Japanese artist Oyama Enrico Isamu.
The museum’s decision to exhibit a single current collection is a testament to the progressive nature of Rei Kawakubo’s work and its relevance and influence on fashion today. “The collection is a rallying point between archaism and a vision of the future, a stand for the imaginary, where consideration of the garment, the noblest of all, is the subject.” – Olivier Saillard
White Drama at Cité de la Mode et du Design 34, Quai d’Austerlitz – Paris 75013 runs from April 13th until October 7th 2012. Read Fashion Editor Caroline Newell’s take on the collection in The Royalty Issue here.
Text : Dan Thawley
Ann Demeulemeester Poet / Bondage Shirt
$350 (buy this for me please)
Silent AW 12 Showroom
Gradients for days…
Darklands 4.0 is now open
If you don’t know now you know
Song for the Mute
Having recently shown as part of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Song for the Mute’s Melvin Tanaya and Lyna Ty were keen to show how far they’ve come in a year since winning the LMFF Designer Award. “Everything about this season is different,” explains Mr Tanaya. “The fabric choices altered the way we approached design and how we created shapes within the collection.” This ultimately led the designers to explore new silhouettes and styles for spring/summer, taking their cue from tech-wear. “Utility is key this season,” he says. Song For The Mute was previously known for an androgynous aesthetic care of its softly draped garments, but that too changed this season. Unlike previous collections, the designers developed a fabric that “doesn’t drape at all”, giving structure and control to their garments. The fabric, a lightweight Japanese cotton/wool blend, is coated in paper, which means they needn’t be pressed and can be crushed and formed in any shape desired. “It’s something we would have avoided in the past,” says Mr Tanaya. “Our signature look is still evident, but with a twist. It’s a risk but we want to push the envelope.”