Yohji Yamamoto - Discord
This new luxury accessory brand ‘Discord’ by Yohji Yamamoto went on presale earlier this week in Tokyo. The brand itself was launched as a collaboration with Isetan Mitsukoshi but has evolved to be much more. The logo is composed of a series of imperfect lines or scratches which echoes the wabi-sabi of the items themselves.
This is Yohji’s first attempt at making bags in the 40 years he’s been a designer. He assembled a team of female designers to help him determine the right texture for the leather as well as the length of the handles and other minute details.
Yohji does an excellent job of explaining the collection though…
“There are so many cool things in Japan. Wabi-sabi (austere refinement and quiet simplicity), ma (intervals), the aesthetic of subtraction and beauty derived from disintegration and distortion are unique to Japan. We have artisans with top-level traditional skills who work for small businesses. If we create opportunities to introduce items created with such spirits to the market, young people might become interested in the creative process and follow the predecessors’ steps. It’s important for people like me, who have been involved in fashion for a long time, to encourage young talent and pass on traditions and skills. To achieve this, I want to emphasize Japanese beauty in my designs. For this, I require your support!”
Comme des Garçons ss14, photographed by Julien d’Ys
HV14-5 Waxy Leather Jacket Rubberized Sleeves
A supple choice in materials gives this piece its vitality. Breathable cutouts along the inner sleeve are defined by rubber outlines. There occur elongated breathable tech linings outlined by leather details that shape the structure of the hand.
HV14-3 Guidi Horse Leather Cross-Zip
The element of detachment is being explored and realized within washed sumptuous leather. Metal Zippers are arranged along the front of the silhouette and are extended through to the collar and down to the back. This execution grants multiple uses and interactions with this piece.
HV14-4 Guidi Horse Leather With binded Elbow Joints
Traditional elements are juxtaposed by strong opulent material and detail. Being bound within the jacket by an independent leather harness also aids to the feeling of security. Carefully constructed leather bound joints allow for a feeling of flexibility.
HV14-2 Shiny Guidi Zip up Neck Jacket with Rubberized Sleeves
The silhouette of this form has been cast directly onto the human figure allowing for maximum movement and the ability to pose as a structure, when fixed until the top. Articulated elbow joints sealed with rubber alongside hands wrapped in opulent leather with exposed knuckles make the wearer conscious of his own being.
Substantial elements of utilitarianism are mixed with luxurious leather in this classic representation. Weathered metal buckles are placed accordingly around areas of the body that require at times both restraint and expansion. The wearer has the ability to adjust these properties.
HV14-13 Perforated Leather Jacket
The simplicity that appears within the silhouette of this piece only masks the advanced development within the perforation. Individually programmed and punctured each pattern piece that makes up this garment is a true work of technique and distinctiveness. In order for the pattern to be effective the perforations must be executed in a vanishing form so that the tailoring of the jacket is not impaired.
Y/PROJECT WOMENSWEAR AW14 - TEASER
Film by Adulte Adulte
Model : Bianca O’Brien for IMG
Make up : Hugo Villard
Music : Clément Hateau
Filmed during a photoshoot by CG Watkins