June 26, 2014

Julius Spring Summer 2015

Tatsuro Horikawa continues the shift back toward a more tailored aesthetic although incorporates a number of oversize tops in this offering. I can’t say I’m surprised by much in the show but that certainly isn’t a fault. It feels like the brand is settling in to more of a defined aesthetic and changing less and less each season. Again not anything negative as in fact I see this as a sign that designer is truly achieving their vision.

This change Julius has been undergoing over the past several seasons towards what I mentally refer to as ‘the softer side of Julius’ has seemed to mirror my own aesthetic shift. Moving away from the more aggressive apocalyptic garments and towards a more gentle aesthetic.

I’m going to need to own a number of these shirts… and as always the cargo pants are grasping for my wallet.

 


June 26, 2014

Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring Summer 2015

The season has just started but Boris is already a strong candidate for the best collection in my humble opinion. I’m elated to see the return of the open weave - almost net like - fabric. The entirety of the collection is so cohesive I feel as though any of the pieces could be worn together.

As usual what few colors Boris has used are exemplary. Green has been something I’ve long considered incorporating in to my wardrobe and I think this may be the season I succumb. The distressed grey-green is one of the most fantastic tones I’ve seen in ages. 

This whole collection seems to follow Boris’ recent shift toward a tighter more tailored look although I’m thankful to see some baggier options included. I couldn’t have asked for much more from this collection. I’m all too happy.

More info on the collection via Now Fashion

The inspiration for this collection came from pretty far away actually, but the collection was mostly about moulding my own produced leather,” said Boris Bidjan Saberi after presenting his Spring Summer 2015 collection at Garage Lübeck. All types of leather were present in his collection, ranging from horse to kangaroo.

Bidjan Saberi paid much attention to his material choices. Besides using his own leather, the cashmeres, cotton and hand-knits were featured prominently.

"My focus has been on very opposite points, but I have tried to make military references.

Moulding his own leather evolved into big backpacks, again inspired by military style. Apart from the bags, he experimented with moulding even more, creating an impressive coat attached to the back of a suit jacket.

Kangaroo leather was not the only thing taken from Australia. His collaboration with the Australian musician Ben Frost functioned as the perfect background for the almost marching models.

Loyal as he is, Boris wanted to be sure all the journalists got the name of the designer he collaborated with for a part of his footwear collection right. It was Muñoz Vrandecic, the designer he first met when he was starting an accessories label called UCANFUCKW, with whom he created the perforated leather boots.

The leather boots, strong music and industrial look of Garage Lübeck had everything to create the military references the designer was aiming for.

June 24, 2014

Devoa SS15

Always strong Devoa is back with more of what they do best. Sharp tailoring and Japanese fabric. This season they are introducing a stretch Washi fabric. For those that don’t know Washi is a type of wood based paper that has been made in Japan for ages.  It`s a fantastic substance and makes for beautifully textured fabric. It`s rather stiff generally so I am interested in how this stretch fabric will feel compared to what I’ve experienced in the past. 

Eagerly anticipating more information on this collection. 

Photos from Stealth Projekt

June 18, 2014

Merce Cunningham: Scenario 

ft. Designs by Rei Kawakubo

Merce Cunningham went exploring the endless possibilities within the range of motion of the human body life’s work. In his - developed together with the composer John Cage - aleatory way of working which he expanded by computer-generated movements since the 1990s, it the medium of dance with the movement itself was identical. At the same time always but he crossed the boundaries between the diverse genres of art by many renowned visual artists such as Robert Rauschenberg, Andy Warhol and Jasper Johns and composers such as John Cage, David Tudor and Earle Brown - to name just a few - could win kopräsente performance concepts to design his choreographies. 

One of the most unusual pieces he succeeded with his 1997 at Next Wave Festival at the Brooklyn Academy of Music premiered “Scenario” in cooperation with the Japanese fashion designer Rei Kawakubo, who presented their radical avant-garde collections under the label Comme des Garçons since 1973. Kawakubo gave Cunningham initially a rejection: “I do not understand anything from dance, I thought I could not take that job.” While working on their Frühjahrs-/Sommer-Kollektion 1997 “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” but then she decided to get involved in the experiment, and presented a draft that barely has something in common with traditional costumes: With extreme bulges and ridges at different parts of the body - on the shoulders, back, hip or buttocks - designed Kawakubo the lines of the dancer’s body in its own way, and, vice versa, take their costumes through the motions of the body is always new and unpredictable and sometimes strange and grotesque forms. Among the endless-flowing undulations of music by Takehisa Kosugi, in which to varying spectrum of sounds gradually electronic word alienation of A are interspersed to Z kidnapped “Scenario” the viewer into an-alien fascinating world in which deformation and beauty in a very peculiar way twinned with each other appear.

May 26, 2014

Ziggy Chen Shanghai Xintiandi Store

May 23, 2014
Jona SeesInAisce

Jona Sees

InAisce

May 22, 2014
The Man Himself

The Man Himself

May 18, 2014

James Kearns London

May 16, 2014

Yohji Yamamoto - Discord

This new luxury accessory brand ‘Discord’ by Yohji Yamamoto went on presale earlier this week in Tokyo. The brand itself was launched as a collaboration with Isetan Mitsukoshi but has evolved to be much more. The logo is composed of a series of imperfect lines or scratches which echoes the wabi-sabi of the items themselves. 

This is Yohji’s first attempt at making bags in the 40 years he’s been a designer. He assembled a team of female designers to help him determine the right texture for the leather as well as the length of the handles and other minute details. 

Yohji does an excellent job of explaining the collection though…
“There are so many cool things in Japan. Wabi-sabi (austere refinement and quiet simplicity), ma (intervals), the aesthetic of subtraction and beauty derived from disintegration and distortion are unique to Japan. We have artisans with top-level traditional skills who work for small businesses. If we create opportunities to introduce items created with such spirits to the market, young people might become interested in the creative process and follow the predecessors’ steps. It’s important for people like me, who have been involved in fashion for a long time, to encourage young talent and pass on traditions and skills. To achieve this, I want to emphasize Japanese beauty in my designs. For this, I require your support!”

May 14, 2014
Comme des Garçons ss14, photographed by Julien d’Ys

Comme des Garçons ss14, photographed by Julien d’Ys