Zam Barret Spring Summer 2015
Comme des Garçons Spring Summer 2015
Rick Owens Spring Summer 2015 Interview
Ann Demeulemeester Spring Summer 2015
Pleasantly surprised with this
Yohji Yamamoto Spring Summer 2015
"Do we ever find ourselves?"
Words cannot do this justice. Anyone that may have questioned Yohji’s direction or sense of identity in past seasons will now eat those words.
Yohji is a designer who no matter the market has always stuck by his vision and this perhaps has not always been the best for business. Yet this is something I find so admirable as it shows such a confidence in his design.
I find such solace in Yohji and his timeless garments. Yohji will always be Yohji in most sincere sense and that reliability is unwavering.
Song for the Mute Spring Summer 2015 Roots
The title for the new collection “ROOTS” stems from the images of nature which the Designer was inspired by when creating the pieces. Her mood board was filled with pictures of branches, trees and roots reflecting the organic, raw and earthy feel of the materials and clothes. This collection also represents the putting down of roots on a new plateau in preparation for a journey forward into new ideas and personal growth.
Song for the Mute’s unique aesthetic encapsulates both tailoring and the avant-garde with a sportswear edge while still offering the highest quality fabrics and construction.
Rick Owens Men’s Spring Summer 2015
Leave it to Rick to always surprise…
This collection was nothing like I was expecting and honestly by this point I feel like I should expect that from Rick. As a proponent for drop crotch pants even I’m intrigued by what appears to be some kind of tied sarong shorts but it’s hard to tell with the way this show is style. Many garments are worn in such unnatural ways tied and draped over the bodies of the models.
The whole show has a very obvious tribal feel to it with the styling and of course the body paint. Who could forget the body paint… a very bold choice.
An interesting addition to the collection was the embroidered prints. These were based on a series of drawings Rick Owens team member Benoit had drawn for Rick and Michelle in previous years.
As well in an interview regarding the collection Rick Owens attributed some of the inspiration to ‘the ballet ‘Afternoon of a Faun’
"I was thinking about the ballet Afternoon of a Faun, choreographed by Nijinsky. It basically all culminates with this faun masturbating on a nymph’s scarf, so everybody in the audience, with all their jewels, are just waiting for this guy to hump the scarf. I love that!" – Rick Owens.
Julius Spring Summer 2015
Tatsuro Horikawa continues the shift back toward a more tailored aesthetic although incorporates a number of oversize tops in this offering. I can’t say I’m surprised by much in the show but that certainly isn’t a fault. It feels like the brand is settling in to more of a defined aesthetic and changing less and less each season. Again not anything negative as in fact I see this as a sign that designer is truly achieving their vision.
This change Julius has been undergoing over the past several seasons towards what I mentally refer to as ‘the softer side of Julius’ has seemed to mirror my own aesthetic shift. Moving away from the more aggressive apocalyptic garments and towards a more gentle aesthetic.
I’m going to need to own a number of these shirts… and as always the cargo pants are grasping for my wallet.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring Summer 2015
The season has just started but Boris is already a strong candidate for the best collection in my humble opinion. I’m elated to see the return of the open weave - almost net like - fabric. The entirety of the collection is so cohesive I feel as though any of the pieces could be worn together.
As usual what few colors Boris has used are exemplary. Green has been something I’ve long considered incorporating in to my wardrobe and I think this may be the season I succumb. The distressed grey-green is one of the most fantastic tones I’ve seen in ages.
This whole collection seems to follow Boris’ recent shift toward a tighter more tailored look although I’m thankful to see some baggier options included. I couldn’t have asked for much more from this collection. I’m all too happy.
More info on the collection via Now Fashion
The inspiration for this collection came from pretty far away actually, but the collection was mostly about moulding my own produced leather,” said Boris Bidjan Saberi after presenting his Spring Summer 2015 collection at Garage Lübeck. All types of leather were present in his collection, ranging from horse to kangaroo.
Bidjan Saberi paid much attention to his material choices. Besides using his own leather, the cashmeres, cotton and hand-knits were featured prominently.
"My focus has been on very opposite points, but I have tried to make military references.
Moulding his own leather evolved into big backpacks, again inspired by military style. Apart from the bags, he experimented with moulding even more, creating an impressive coat attached to the back of a suit jacket.
Kangaroo leather was not the only thing taken from Australia. His collaboration with the Australian musician Ben Frost functioned as the perfect background for the almost marching models.
Loyal as he is, Boris wanted to be sure all the journalists got the name of the designer he collaborated with for a part of his footwear collection right. It was Muñoz Vrandecic, the designer he first met when he was starting an accessories label called UCANFUCKW, with whom he created the perforated leather boots.
The leather boots, strong music and industrial look of Garage Lübeck had everything to create the military references the designer was aiming for.
Always strong Devoa is back with more of what they do best. Sharp tailoring and Japanese fabric. This season they are introducing a stretch Washi fabric. For those that don’t know Washi is a type of wood based paper that has been made in Japan for ages. It`s a fantastic substance and makes for beautifully textured fabric. It`s rather stiff generally so I am interested in how this stretch fabric will feel compared to what I’ve experienced in the past.
Eagerly anticipating more information on this collection.
Photos from Stealth Projekt